(this is not my studio, but represents organization--this is where I want to be!)
After moving into a new house, and now moving to a new in-home studio, I'm committed to organizing my new room until every single thing in it has a specific place. I am trying to minimize clutter, add style to the room, and hide as much as I can by adding drawers, curtains, and cabinets. It always helps to start this process with a clean slate, which is the opportunity I have. In doing this, I have to pick up each and every piece that needs a home and analyze it. I will also figure out how bad I need that item. Many questions I find myself asking over and over again are:
*Have I used this in the last year?
*Is this a notion or trim that I can use creatively?
*Is the fabric at least a yard long?
*Does is work?
*Do I have more than one?
In the end, if I can't answer the questions, or I I answered them and the answer tells me I don't need it anymore, it is canned. I don't need clutter, and there is no use to storing something that will never be used. While it is hard to get rid of things that you may be able to use creatively, you also need to consider if you have enough to use for a whole project and also if it is something that even fits your style aesthetic. For example, I had a fabric that was bright pink tulle with hearts inside of it. When I look at it, it looks very young and a bit cheap. And, its only half a yard. In reality, if I was to use it, I wouldn't have enough for a whole project, but also, since my mind already thinks it looks cheap, then why would I even attempt to use it? I don't want any of my designs to represent "cheap". So, it must go. This process continues through each and every object that needs placement.
As well as going through and getting rid of the clutter, we also need to find a place for it to go. The new room I have is a bit smaller than what I had before, so it is going to take alot of thought to find a home for everything. Instead of having random drawers scattered throughout a shelf rack I had, I have now found plastic drawers that stack in all different sizes. I put them all into a mirrored cabinet I have. One location for all the drawers, and they are hidden in a cabinet- perfect! Each drawer will have different purposes: trim, buttons, zippers, miscellaneous notions, appliques, paper goods, shipping goods, beadery, glues, etc.
Being that I am a fashion designer, I also have a ton of thread, which all needs a home. I have wooden spool racks that hold multiple spools of thread, like the picture below:
And, for all the clothes and patterns I have hanging, well, they can be hidden as well. They are set back into a closet that will have curtains covering them when I don't need to get in. This will keep dust from getting to them, and keep the room from looking too cluttered.
Why Have An Organized Design Studio?
I'm sure that everyone wishes they could be a little more organized in one part of their lives. The reason is not only because it looks more clean, but it is also because it really can make a difference on your productivity. Moving in general, has given me a different approach on my upcoming designs, but now that I also am clutter free and organized, I feel free. I enjoy sitting in my room and working all day because I'm comfortable with my surroundings, and feel the productive bones moving throughout my body. As soon as my room is completely put together, I will post the before and after, and you can be the judge as to which studio you would like to work in. :)
And, go ahead, do it yourself. When you get motivated, take a corner of your work space and pick up each and every item. Ask if you need it, then find a perfect place for it if you do. You will feel very rejuvinated.
This is step 5 in a 5 part series in how to create a design through a fashion designer's eyes. Step 1:Inspiration, Step 2: Sketch, Step 3: First Pattern, Step 4: First Sample
Your final step in the process is the most rewarding of all the steps because you get to see your final look. In this step you want to take your final pattern and use it to cut into your real fabrics. Cut all of your peices out first, then sew them together in the ways that you have decided through your samples. Make sure to sew on any buttons, zippers, hooks, etc. that are needed. Be sure to finish all your edges and your hem line.
Once you have completed the construction, have your fit model try it on for one last time to be sure that everything was assembled correctly. If and when everything looks good, then you have completed your design.
In order to show off your new design, it is important to work with a photographer to get good pictures of the design. If you ask around, sometimes somebody you know may know somebody who does photography. If not, there are many other ways to find them. You can use Model Mayhem (where you can find models and photographers), local fashion networking events, craigslist, etc.
And, once you have photos, put them everywhere. Use social networking sites, and/or your own website. The photos below are from the last three photo shoots I was a part of. If you click on a photo, it will bring you to the entire shoot.
Continuing from Step 1: Inspiration, Step 2: Sketch, and Step 3: First Pattern, the next thing you want to do is construct your first sample. This is a crucial step in adjusting any fit issues or seam placement. From your first pattern, you want to cut into fabric that will be similar to the actual fabric you want to use for your design, but do not use the real fabric. The first sample is never a final product. Use this to perfect your end result. When choosing a fabric to use for your first sample, make sure that it is the same weight as your real fabric and has the same texture, for the closer you are to the real fabric, the more you will know how it will fit when you are ready to use the real fabric.
Once you have cut all your peices with the sample fabric from your first pattern, sew them together. I always start with all peices to make the front, then the back, then sew the front to the back. When sewing my first sample, I leave my edges raw so that once I fit the peice, I can examine it and think more about how I want to finish the edges (like the hem, neckline, armholes, etc.). For the best results, I would also include a zipper (if you are using one for closure) in the sample, but instead of buttons, I will just use pins.
When everything is sewn, it is time to use a fit model to try on the sample. If you don't have a fit model (which is a person with similar measurements to your sample), then the next best thing is to use a dress form. Dress forms don't really do justice, though, for they are stiff and don't show the body movement of a live body. I use myself for a fit model, which works great for me.
As you look at your sample on the body, analyze the fit. Look at where the fabric pulls, or looks too loose. Look at the seam placements. Look at how it makes the body look overall. Compare it to your original idea and see where it is the same and where it is different. Mark areas you want to change, or pin areas you want to take in. Consider how you want your hem, and how you want to finish your edges. Then, play with the edges and attempt to finish them the way you have decided. Take as much from this sample as you can and find all the changes you want to make.
After finding all the changes, go back to your pattern and make the adjustments. Once your adjustments have been made, you move on to constructing a second pattern. Then make your adjustments to the pattern, and continue going through this process until you have reached your goal of seeing the design exactly the way you envisioned it.
Do not be discouraged if you make many samples before the real garment. If you want a perfect design, you will want to make all the changes. Sometimes the more practice you have, the more you understand your fit, and the less samples you will make. But, sometimes if you have a very complex design, or tricky fit ideas, it will take a while to master the look. I will never cut into the real fabric until my last sample looks just like I want it to. And, I've learned the hard way that you never want to jump from a sample, to making changes, then cutting into the real fabric without seeing a last sample that you are full satisfied with.
This blog has been a continuation of past blogs describing my process of fashion design. If you want to catch up, please start with Step 1: Inspiration, then following it is Step 2: Sketching.
Once we have sketched out our ideas for a design, we need to figure out which ones we would like to attempt to bring to life. We need to take in account the way that it would be constructed, how a person will put it on, and how we will create the first pattern. When we have decided on the design to attempt, we need to make a first pattern. A first pattern is like the rough draft. Its the first attempt to the real deal. There are two ways of creating a first pattern. One, we can make a flat pattern, like seen below:
Or we can drape our first pattern as seen in these pictures below: Pattern Draping is a procedure where you use muslin or a fabric similar to the one you want to use in your design and drape it on a dress form allowing it to lay in the way you want your design to look on the body. You use pins to place the fabric in the appropriate places, then marking all areas that follow your design.
For me, the best way to decide whether to use a flat pattern or drape for my own first pattern, I think about the design. If I have alot of details and need all correct placement, or want to design something very body concious (like a corset for instance), or want to have fabric that drapes on the body, I will drape my first pattern on the dress form. If I am designing something with minimal details, or a basic look, or something that doesn't need focus on fit, then I will use a flat pattern.
Once I have decided on how I will create my first pattern, I will do it accordingly. My first pattern is usually very rough, but gets the idea across. I don't spend quality time on perfecting my fit or placement of details, but want to get the general idea across. If I drape my first pattern, I will then lay it on a table and create a flat pattern from it.
After I have created a first pattern, I will then cut into a muslin or fabric that is similar to my design, but not the actual fabric. I am using this as a sample of my design. I will sew it up and put it on the dress form to see how it looks and how close it is to the design I want. From this sample, I am able to see changes that need to be made and I can mark them and change my pattern accordingly. This step is very crucial, you never want to cut into your real fabric from a first pattern. Even if it looks great, I want to make it perfect, so I will try to change at least a few things. And, almost always, my first sample never looks the way I want it to.
If you want more help on draping, check out these videos I found helpful:
The second one can be viewed here.
The third can be viewed here.
For Flat Patternmaking, I use a book called Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong. I highly recommend it. It is easy to follow and covers many different types of designs and all kinds of garments. We were required to have this book when I was in school and I still use it now.
This blog is a continuance from Step 1: Inspiration. Once you find the inspiration you want for your design or collection, you want to start thinking about how it fits on the body. You want to think about the drape of fabric, the sillhouette, details, etc. The best way to give yourself the idea of how something will look before you actually make the design is by sketching out your ideas. Sketching allows you to change ideas, play with colors and fabrics, and show your ideas on paper before you cut into your fabric, or even go to find your fabric sometimes.
To begin sketching, you will want to use a croquis. You may have croquis of your own, or you can sometimes find free templates online. Once you find the ones you like, trace them out on paper. This will be the beginning of your sketch...Oh, and use pencil and have a good eraser.
Once you have the croquis traced, you want to start drawing out the lines of your design. Pay close attention to the alignment, especially when the croquis is posed--not facing straight on and symmetric. Play with your lines and ideas, then color according to your fabric, trying your best to replicate the look of the fabric. Make as many sketches as you have ideas. You want to remember all your ideas. Whether you decide to use them in your new design or not, you may dig them up later and like your idea again, and decide to use it later. This happens to me all the time.
Check out this video, which explains the process of sketching very well:
The first step in the process of fashion design is drawing inspiration from life. What “drawing inspiration” means is to use things in your surroundings to give you ideas of how to create a design. Whatever you see or do may trigger an idea, so paying more attention to what is around you is always beneficial. When you find the right inspiration, it gives you an amazing feeling of accomplishment. This is the most crucial part of creating the right design, so it should never be taken lightly. Take as much time as you need and take it all in. The best advice I can give when looking for inspiration is: Always carry a camera with you. I keep a small digital camera in my purse at all times. It’s kind of attached to my wallet—a must have at all times.
To find the right inspiration:
*I often look through many fashion magazines (Vogue, Elle, W, etc.). I am usually looking for season trends, taking a special eye to colors and shapes. Rip out those pages in the magazines, circle the look or inspirational part on the page, and don’t lose those pages!
*I travel whenever I can, taking a close look at culture, fashion, nature, and art. Take pictures of anything that you find interesting. With digital cameras, you don’t need to be selective, take pictures of everything. And, keep a journal. Write about your adventures, write about the behaviors of people, animals, plants, everything.
*I pay attention to interior design. I am always paying close attention to colors, furniture, design lines, art, structure, etc. I look through home magazines and rip out pages, I take mental notes of anything I see on TV that I like, I verbally discuss something I see in someone’s home or office, and I always take pictures when I have my camera.
*I try to always be aware of my surroundings. Everything from the monotony of everyday living, to trying something new….there is always an idea waiting to be discovered. Like I mentioned before, I always have a camera and am taking pictures of anything that looks interesting or appealing.
What if you can’t find the right inspiration?
On the flip side of finding the right inspiration, sometimes you try so hard to find that perfect idea, you become overwhelmed and discouraged. You hit a road block. This is a very normal process for artists of all kinds. Everyone has their own way of getting out of it. For me, I sometimes need to take the day off from designing and use my energy for something else completely different. Some times I even need to take multiple days off. I’ve learned the hard way that if I push myself to “just do something”, even if I don’t like the idea, I will have wasted a whole day trying too hard to design something I am not passionate about and it comes out looking like absolute crap. Allowing yourself to get to this point can create even more discouragement and leave you feeling like a loser, as it does for me. If there is any advice I could give when you hit a road block, it would be this: Give yourself the time you need. Don’t feel rushed. Transition your energy towards something that makes you feel good, and come back to design when you are ready and excited about it.
As a fashion designer living in San Diego, I run into a lot of people that don’t really understand the concept of fashion, or what exactly a fashion designer does. I am often mistaken as a seamstress or alterations. Now, I may be capable of sewing and making alterations, but that is not who I am. I feel the need for this blog because I’ve had it up to my ears in explaining myself away from a seamstress and trying to open people’s eyes up to the idea that design is an art and not a trade. Being a small business owner of my own line of fashion, my job duties are definitely different than world known designers. I want to walk you through the process I take as a designer. In the blogs to follow, I will tell about my process. I look forward to hearing comments and questions from my readers.
